Lagerfeld asked Lesage for a tweed that would look black in the shadows and blue in the light, and the atelier answered with five fibres woven together. Cotton, silk, nylon, wool and linen each catch light differently, so the cloth seems to move even when the jacket is still.

• Royal blue over black. The blue is woven in as flat ribbons laid over a black ground, never printed or dyed on the surface. The colour has depth rather than brightness, like colour seen at night.
• The lightest shimmer. A fine metallic thread runs through the weave so discreetly that it almost disappears in daylight. Under evening light it wakes, the reflection on the water rather than the lights themselves.
• Five fibres in one cloth. Cotton gives the tweed its structure and silk its gloss, while the softest wool, linen and nylon add loft, crispness and strength. Every row of the weave has a slightly different rhythm, the sign of a cloth built by hand.
• Bronze-thread braid. Lagerfeld edged the jacket in a black braid with a shimmering bronze thread woven through it. It frames the tweed the way a lacquer border frames a panel of a Coromandel screen.
• Black silk lining. The interior is lined in black silk with a touch of stretch. It is cool against the skin and lets the jacket glide over a blouse or a fine pullover.

The cut is the one Lagerfeld returned to all his life: straight, close at the shoulder and ending at the hip. Only the collar and the buttons reveal that he made it for Paris / Shanghai.

• A line that flatters without effort. The jacket follows the body without tightening at the waist, so it looks just as composed buttoned as open. It never asks the woman wearing it to stand any particular way.
• The hip-length proportion. The hem stops exactly where the leg seems longest. Over a pencil skirt it is all poise; over wide trousers or jeans it turns easy and modern.
• A neckline that frames the face. The stand collar lifts the line of the neck and draws the eye upward. Worn closed it needs no jewellery; worn open it makes a perfect setting for pearls.
• Coins at the wrist. The sleeves are set high and close with three coin buttons at each cuff. Turned back a touch, they let a flash of black silk show.
• From day into night. In daylight it is a deep blue tweed jacket; at dinner the shimmer appears. Few pieces from the collection move between the two so naturally.