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2015 Paris / Salzburg Lexicon

2015 Paris / Salzburg

Lexicon

The people, places and crafts behind the objects of this hall

  1. A length of the jacket's braid

    Braid

    A twisted or woven trim sewn along an edge. On Tracht it borders the jacket; at Chanel it has framed the jacket since the 1950s.

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  2. Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster, photographed about 1915

    Duke of Westminster

    Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke, known as "Bendor" (1879–1953), among the richest men in Europe. Chanel's companion in the 1920s, he took her stalking and fishing in Scotland, and she took his tweeds.

    Bain News Service, c. 1915 · Library of Congress, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  3. Edelweiss: white woolly star-shaped flowers on grey-green stems

    Edelweiss

    The white, woolly star of the high Alps, the best known of the Alpine flowers: embroidered on Tracht, pinned to hats, worn as a badge by mountain troops.

    Allen & Ginter, Chamois card, 1890 (detail) · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  4. Card portrait: the Empress of Austria with flowers in her hair and long strands of pearls, before a gilt lace ground and the double-headed eagle

    Empress Elisabeth

    "Sissi" (1837–1898), Empress of Austria, famous for her beauty, her riding and the diamond stars in her hair. Lagerfeld's imperial muse for Paris–Salzburg; in his film she is played by Cara Delevingne.

    Allen & Ginter, Empress of Austria, 1889 · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  5. Lithograph: the fortress of Salzburg above a pond, a man in a hat and short jacket with a dog

    Ferdinand Olivier

    German Romantic painter (1785–1841). In 1823 he published seven views of Salzburg and Berchtesgaden, one for each day of the week, peopled with farmers in Tracht.

    Ferdinand Olivier, 1823 · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  6. Gabrielle Chanel in a fur-collared coat and cloche hat, walking beside the Duke of Westminster at Aintree

    Gabrielle Chanel

    1883–1971. Here with the Duke of Westminster at Aintree in 1925, the years she spent in his tweeds.

    Aintree, 27 March 1925 · public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  7. The white fortress of Hohensalzburg on its wooded hill above the town

    Hohensalzburg

    The fortress over the town, begun in 1077 and one of the largest medieval castles in Europe. Every view of Salzburg, Olivier's included, is built around it.

    Photo C. Stadler/Bwag, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  8. A ewer of dark carved ibex horn with gilded mounts, on a gold openwork stand

    Ibex horn

    The curved horn of the Alpine ibex, the wild goat of the high rock. Carved and mounted in gold, it made hunting trophies fit for a princely table.

    Martin Gizl, 1758 · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  9. Karl Lagerfeld in 2014: white ponytail, dark glasses, high white collar

    Karl Lagerfeld

    Creative director of Chanel from 1983 until his death in 2019. He liked to take the House abroad for Métiers d'Art and to tell its history back to it, with a twist.

    Photo Christopher William Adach, 2014, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  10. Lanz

    Salzburg's Tracht house, founded in 1922, the same year as the Salzburg Festival.

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  11. A young hotel groom in a short, fitted, buttoned uniform jacket and pillbox cap, standing by a carved door

    Lift attendant

    In the grand hotels of the 1950s, the young man who ran the lift: a short, fitted jacket with a stand collar, a row of buttons, sometimes braid. Chanel's film gives him the credit for her jacket.

    Agence Rol, Paris, 1928 · BnF Gallica, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  12. A small brass hunting horn on a dark grey loden coat

    Loden

    Dense felted wool from the Alps, traditionally green or grey, worn by hunters because it sheds rain and wind and makes no sound in the forest.

    Photo Frank Behnsen, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  13. Runway photograph from Paris–Salzburg: the same jacket in its runway version, trimmed with felt flowers, worn with suede shorts and lace-up boots in a panelled library

    Métiers d'Art

    Chanel's yearly collection made with the specialist ateliers it owns, shown each December. 2014's was Paris–Salzburg, sold as Pre-Fall 2015.

    Press photograph, CastaliaLux archive

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  14. Ben Stack, a bare conical hill over moorland and a loch in Sutherland

    Reay Forest

    The Duke's deer forest in Sutherland, at the far north-west of Scotland: bare hills, lochs, red deer. Two of its mountains, Arkle and Foinaven, later lent their names to the family's racehorses.

    Ben Stack, Reay Forest · photo Richard Webb, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  15. Portrait of the theatre director Max Reinhardt, 1923

    Salzburg Festival

    Founded in 1920 by Max Reinhardt, Hugo von Hofmannsthal and Richard Strauss. It still opens each summer with Jedermann played on the cathedral square.

    Max Reinhardt, 1923 · BnF Gallica, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  16. Schloss Leopoldskron, white and pale yellow, reflected in its lake under a winter sky

    Schloss Leopoldskron

    A rococo palace on its own lake at the edge of Salzburg, built from 1736 for Prince-Archbishop Leopold Anton Firmian. From 1918 it was the home of Max Reinhardt; in 1965 its lakeside terrace played the von Trapp villa in The Sound of Music.

    Photo Bede735, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  17. Drawing: stags resting and standing in a wooded valley under a rock face

    Stag

    The red deer stag, crown of the Alpine hunt. Its antlers hang on every lodge wall; Ridinger spent a career drawing it.

    Johann Elias Ridinger, Stags in a Landscape · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  18. Woodcut: horsemen, hounds and stags across a wooded landscape with a castle above

    The hunt

    In the Alpine and German lands the stag hunt was a princely art, drawn and engraved for five centuries. Cranach cut this one in 1506.

    Lucas Cranach the Elder, The Stag-Hunt, 1506 · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  19. Detail from Olivier's lithograph: a man in a hat, short jacket and knee breeches

    Tracht

    Traditional dress of the Alpine regions of Austria and Bavaria: dirndls, loden jackets, embroidered bodices, worn for feast days and, increasingly, as fashion.

    Ferdinand Olivier, 1823 · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  20. A piece of the jacket's tweed

    Tweed

    Rough woollen cloth from the Scottish Borders, made for country and sporting clothes. Chanel took it from the men's wardrobe into couture, and the House has woven it ever since.

    In: The Stag at the Cuff

  21. A Tyrolean hunter in a feathered hat and short jacket, climbing a rock with his rifle

    Tyrolean hat

    Green felt or loden, a cord round the crown, a feather or a Gamsbart, the tuft of chamois hair a hunter wears as a trophy.

    Allen & Ginter, Chamois, 1890 · The Met, public domain

    In: The Stag at the Cuff